Table of Contents
Placeholder, currently you should contact nicariim for any and all questions. There shall be guides here on how you can use the printer and set it up for yourself.
|Build Volume (W×D×H)||256 × 256 × 256 mm³|
|Max Hot End Temperature||300 ℃|
|Max Build Plate Temperature||110℃|
|Max Speed of Tool Head||500 mm/s|
|Max Acceleration of Tool Head||20 m/s²|
Generally, all slicers are supported, however, best support is provided by BambuStudio as it is native to the printer and has all profiles built in for printing. Windows and MacOS versions are available through the official page, however, Ubuntu/Fedora/Linux version is also available through the GitHub release page.
For sane people
Windows and MacOS versions should be pretty straightforward to install, instructions below are for Linux version, tutorial will be based on Ubuntu but feel free to add your own notes for other distributions.
As BambuStudio is not yet merge to the master branch, you can use the recent branch from this PR.
One-liner to build and run it:
nix-shell -I nixpkgs=https://github.com/zhaofengli/nixpkgs/archive/49f9cb105b0f74bbc64f648a982b193c36c70da3.zip -p bambu-studio --run bambu-studio
<TODO installation steps>
BambuStudio has some sane defaults for whatever you're doing, but you must choose the initial configuration correctly. Notably, make sure you're using correct nozzle size and choose correct printer when installing.
Slicing and uploading the gcode
Generally make sure the following are set correctly:
- Preset should be set to Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 nozzle
- Plate Type: Either Cool Plate for PLA or Engineering Plate for all the other ones (PET-G, ASA, ABS, PC etc.)
- Filament is set to Generic and whatever Filament you're using (if you got some branded ones that are supported, use the appropriate profiles for them, like Polymaker, eSUN, Bambu. Temperatures are set higher than usual for respective material because of the speed the printer is printing at. If you set it to manufacturers recommended temps, you might have trouble with extrusion. Generally, higher filament temp is okay with Bambu
- By default, use 0.2mm layer height unless you have special needs (fine details use lower values something big that doesn't need as many details use higher values)
- If you want to avoid printing Brim (the outer layers that help with adhesion) - go to Others → Bed Adhesion → Brim Type and set to No-Brim
Uploading the print
There are two ways to print - either use SD-Card and use Export plate sliced file and just put it into the SD, or use LAN printing.
When you want to print from the SD - go to the list of files and just choose your file. SD Card is to the right of the LCD, on the side of the LCD.
When you're in the same network as the printer, you can use LAN printing.
When prompted for the code, go to the 4th tab on the left on the printer, and then go to Networking and use the code that is shown there to connect. If the printer is not discovered, make sure that you've opened 1990 and 2021 TCP ports in your firewall.
Preparing for printing
Printing plate and alignment
- Make sure the printing plate is clean. Remove any leftovers from the previous printing such as test lines or other filament remaining.
- The printing plate has two sides - on marked “PLA” which is called Cool Plate, it is coated with PEI and the other side called Engineering Plate for all the other types of filaments. It only has spray coating on it.
- Before switching sides, wash off the leftover glue from the plate so it doesn't stick to the bed. Use warm water the glue should come off easily. If you want to be extra sure, you can use IPA Alcohol, but it's not necessary if the plate looks relatively clean.
- Always use glue stick to avoid issues with sticking. If you're extra sure / want to avoid having trouble with glue, you may try without, but then it is recommended to use IPA alcohol to clean the plate.
When placing the plate on the bed, you have to make extra sure that the plastic pins in the back of the bed are not overlapped. See the picture for proper and improper mounting. Use your fingers to touch the corners and check if it's okay.
There are three printing options available both from the slicer and when printing from SD card.
- Timelapse - generally if you don't need it uncheck it
- Flow Calibration - if you changed Filament recently, it's recommended to check it. It adds 5 mins to the printing time
- Bed Leveling - unless you're printing something that uses whole bed, you can skip it.
Filament is pushed from behind the printer, it might be hard to reach so see the picture to figure where it is: To change the filament, go to the appropriate menu on the printer and select unload to remove the current filament, or load to load the new one.
Pretty straightforward, just click Unload button and wait for it to finish - after it's done pull it out rather swiftly.
When loading the filament, you will be prompted to push the filament through the tube. Push it until you feel resistance, and then Bambu should detect it and try pulling it.
There will be a modal which will ask you if the filament is being pushed - click Retry and check by holding the filament if it is getting pulled. For example like this
If all is well, click Done and wait for it to finish
Oh no! The filament is stuck
If you cannot unload your filament or push it forward there's a chance that extruder or hot-end got clogged. In such cases following guides may help:
All of the tools (such as unclogging needle) are inside of “Bambulab Accessories” box which should be somewhere near the printers.
While unplugging/plugging the nozzle, please make sure that it's cooled down and its fan is not spinning, you don't want to break it, aren't you?