Commercially available printer inspired by Voron 2.4, scaled up to 50×50cm in X/Y; 45cm in Z with top enclosure (50cm without)

Hostname choice is a reference to Inari Ōkami

The printer's left at the hackerspace for the general use of hackerspace members. Feel free to use, but:

• keep in mind it's the most power hungry 3d printer we have
• if there's any problem with it, contact ari, preferably highlighting on #druk3d matrix channel.
• while in operation, it emits a sound akin to that of a small servo every couple of seconds. that's the auxiliary filament feeder.
• the printer detects, and differentiates between:
  • filament tangling up/jamming up before entering the feeder
  • filament running out
  • nozzle clogging

This printer features an auxiliary filament feeder, which feeds filament through 2 meters of bowden tubing to the (direct drive) extruder.

To load filament follow these steps:

• make sure there's no filament loaded already
• cut the end of filament at an angle close to 45°C
• while holding the lever on the filament feeder, insert filament in the short section of bowden tubing sticking out of the bottom of the feeder
• press the button on the filament feeder
  • this most likely won't load filament all the way to the extruder. if that happens, press the lever and press the button again, or - while holding the lever - push the filament until you feel resistance
  • would be nice if this was fixed in a firmware/config update. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
• make sure the nozzle is heated up to a temperature adequate to push out any reminders of the previous filament and melt the new filament
  • these are just a ballpark values. don't take it as gospel.
  • PLA: 200-240°C
  • PETG: 220-260°C
  • ABS: 240-280°C
• navigate to extrusion control on the touch screen and tell the printer to extrude 25mm of filaments at 2mm/s until you see the new filament flowing out, or the printer returns an error.

The process is a bit more manual than I'd like, but oh well.

Currently installed nozzle is hardened steel 0.4mm. Nozzles are in the general style of e3d v6 nozzles, and swapping them is possible, but extra care must be taken to not crack the ceramic heater. Because of the annoying procedure involving hot-tightening, I've ordered a second hotend module along with the nozzle set, with the intention of swapping the hotend to change between 0.4 and 0.8mm nozzles.

There are printer profiles provided by Sovol: https://github.com/Sovol3d/Sovol-OrcaSlicer/releases/download/v2.3.0.4/Sovo.Profilesl.zip note that they're “system profiles”, and Orca isn't really happy with importing them normally. They have instructions on their wiki for Windows and Mac, but these involve modifying files/profiles installed by the slicer.

I've opened a PR in OrcaSlicer to import the relevant ones for this printer into OrcaSlicer. Hopefully this will get merged in time to get included in v2.3.1 release.The PR has been merged. If you're comfortable with using CI artifacts, which don't have signed binaries, you can try using these builds until new version of Orca Slicer gets released: https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/actions/runs/17951379409 (behind github loginwall) or https://owncloud.hackerspace.pl/s/WBaPjwRrw9tJm8N

Importing “system” profiles in OrcaSlicer is rather annoying. Here's a naive approach to embed them at build time using Nix. Fair warning: this causes a rather lengthy rebuild:

  environment.systemPackages = [
    (let
      sovol-profiles = pkgs.fetchzip {
        url =
          "https://github.com/Sovol3d/Sovol-OrcaSlicer/releases/download/v2.3.0.4/Sovo.Profilesl.zip";
        hash = "sha256-CvcM3Cst35Bz2lloejkKsSla1qrHHuDMxU67da5eHVs=";
      };
    in pkgs.orca-slicer.overrideAttrs (old: {
      prePatch = old.prePatch + ''
        rm -rf resources/profiles/Sovol resources/profiles/Sovol.json
        cp --target-directory=resources/profiles -r ${sovol-profiles}/*
      '';
    }))
  ];

• idle after startup: 18W
• idle, but with all stepper drivers on and holding position: 70-80W
• bed pre-heat: 1133W
• printing:
  • PETG: between 320W and 750W; 25-40% duty cycle on heatbed at 80°C
  • ABS: between 400W and 800W;

Don't.

I may decide to install a Bondtech INDX system on it, if and when that becomes a viable option for this printer.