Commercially available printer inspired by Voron 2.4, scaled up to 50×50cm in X/Y; 45cm in Z with top enclosure (50cm without)

Hostname choice is a reference to Inari Ōkami

The printer's left at the hackerspace for the general use of hackerspace members. Feel free to use, but:

• keep in mind it's the most power hungry 3d printer we have
• if there's any problem with it, contact ari, preferably highlighting on #druk3d matrix channel.
• while in operation, it emits a sound akin to that of a small servo every couple of seconds. that's the auxiliary filament feeder.
• the printer detects, and differentiates between:
  • filament tangling up/jamming up before entering the feeder
  • filament running out
  • nozzle clogging

This printer features an auxiliary filament feeder, which feeds filament through 2 meters of bowden tubing to the (direct drive) extruder.

To load filament follow these steps:

• make sure there's no filament loaded already
• cut the end of filament at an angle close to 45°C
• while holding the lever on the filament feeder, insert filament in the short section of bowden tubing sticking out of the bottom of the feeder
• press the button on the filament feeder
  • this most likely won't load filament all the way to the extruder. if that happens, press the lever and press the button again, or - while holding the lever - push the filament until you feel resistance
  • would be nice if this was fixed in a firmware/config update. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
• make sure the nozzle is heated up to a temperature adequate to push out any reminders of the previous filament and melt the new filament
  • these are just a ballpark values. don't take it as gospel.
  • PLA: 200-240°C
  • PETG: 220-260°C
  • ABS: 240-280°C
• navigate to extrusion control on the touch screen and tell the printer to extrude 25mm of filaments at 2mm/s until you see the new filament flowing out, or the printer returns an error.

The process is a bit more manual than I'd like, but oh well.

If your flexible print can fit on another printer, use them. If other printers are in use, wait for them to be available. Loading flexibles on this printer requires going through steps that have a high chance of damaging the printer if done incorrectly. If you have even a hint of doubt, stop and ask ari for help. If you haven't done this before, and you haven't seen this done before, stop and ask ari for help.

This section is work-in-progress, as there have been few attempts at printing flexible filaments on this printer so far.

The auxiliary filament feeder has proven detrimental for attempts at printing flexible filaments on this printer.

To load a flexible filament:

• heat up the hotend to be able to push out the remains of whatever filament was loaded before.
• remove the toolhead front plate, taking care not to rip out the fan connector
• disconnect the reverse-bowden tube connecting the feeder to the toolhead. remember not to lose the bowden tube locking thingy
• push out the remains of the other filament with a thin metal rod, which should be present in the sovol maintenance parts box. a thin hex driver could also work
• change the hotend temperature to whatever your flexible filament requires
• with the idler arm loose, push the flexible filament through the extruder mechanism.
• close the idler wheel arm and screw it back in
• disable filament sensor in the printer interface.
• extrude filament by clicking through the printer interface until no remains of previous filament remain visible.
• close the toolhead front plate, remembering to re-connect the fan.
• secure the disconnected reverse-bowden tube and the bowden tube locking thingy.
• watch the first layer when starting a print, and make sure it's all actually sticking to the bed

Remember to un-do the changes when print is finished.

Currently installed nozzle is hardened steel 0.6mm. Nozzles are in the general style of e3d v6 nozzles, and swapping them is possible, but extra care must be taken to not crack the ceramic heater. Because of the annoying procedure involving hot-tightening, there's a a second hotend module with 0.4mm nozzle installed, with the intention of swapping the hotend to change between 0.4 and 0.8mm nozzles.

OrcaSlicer since the release of version 2.3.1 has profiles for Sovol SV08 MAX.

Until a version of OrcaSlicer with profile fix gets released, users wanting to use “Pause at layer” feature straight from the slicer will need to make a manual profile change.

1. Open machine settings
2. Open “Machine G-code” tab
3. Scroll down to the “Pause G-code” setting
4. Write PAUSE in the text field.

The default profiles for generic filaments are quite conservative/slow. Here's some experimentally-verified improvements:

• yellow Plastspaw PET-G (the same as used on huge pope meme print) + 0.8mm nozzle:
  • Volumetric speed limitation → Max volumetric speed → 30mm³/s, default for “Generic PETG” is 15mm³/s

• idle after startup: 18W
• idle, but with all stepper drivers on and holding position: 70-80W
• bed pre-heat: 1133W
• printing:
  • PETG: between 320W and 750W; 25-40% duty cycle on heatbed at 80°C
  • ABS: between 400W and 800W;

Don't.

I may decide to install a Bondtech INDX system on it, if and when that becomes a viable option for this printer.